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Legacy of Islam in Ahmadabad
Features - November 13, 2005
Wahyuni Kamah, Contributor, Ahmadabad, India "Sister!
Sister!" a vendor called as my Singaporean friend Meg and I strolled
through Lal Darwaja traditional market in the Old Town of Ahmadabad,
Gujarat, India. A few steps further we were greeted with "Hello",
"Please come" and "What do you want?" by other friendly vendors.
The market was crowded with women shoppers mostly wearing traditional
Indian dresses in different color and materials. The kiosks, selling
textiles, saris and traditional Indian dresses like salwar khameez, kurties and, of course, choli, which is full of ornaments and small mirrors, lined the market road.
The colorful dresses hung in front of the kiosk to attract shoppers.
Some were labeled with "fixed price" stickers, which mean no
bargaining. I understood why it was hard to find women wearing Western
clothes in Ahmadabad in general, since local and national dress and
clothes are largely offered in the market.
We neither understood Gujarati language -- the state's language besides
Hindi -- nor read the local characters, but with broken English,
everything was just fine. Gujarati people are well-known for their
business skill. As vendors, they are hospitable to customers. I could
not even refuse to buy a sari in one shop since they picked up every
orange material when I said I liked orange. They treat you in a
pleasant way although you only buy one piece.
Old Town is populated generally by Muslims, who account for about 30
percent of the town's five million inhabitants. At about noon, business
seemed to stop for a while. The shop entrances were sealed by fabrics
preventing the shoppers to come in. "Two o'clock," said a man. I
realized it was Friday and the shop owners went to the nearby mosque to
pray.
Dubbed the Manchester of the East, Ahmadabad used to be the largest
denim producer in the world. It is the largest town in Gujarat state of
India and the seventh largest town in India. Old Town is separated by
the Sabarmati River with the rest of the town.
Ahmadabad was founded in 1411 by Sultan Ahmad Shah, a Muslim king who
occupied Gujarat in the 14th century. He fortified the Old Town and the
remnants of the fortification can be seen near the traditional market.
It is called Teen Darwaja, a triple arched gateway to enter the former
Royal Square.
Old Town has four remarkable mosques marking the past Islamic reign in
Gujarat. All the mosques are excellent examples of Indo-Saracenic
architecture and the marriage of Islamic and Hindu architecture.
Siddi Saiyed Mosque near Lal Darawaj is famous for its magnificent
stone tracery as seen in its semi-circular windows, with banyan tree
carvings on the screened windows. Women, however, cannot enter the
mosque.
Sultan Ahmad Shah also built a grand mosque in 1423, popularly known as
Jumma Masjid, right in the Old Town. It is one of the most beautiful
mosques in the East. The construction material is yellow sandstone,
where fine carvings can be found in its 260 pillars in the prayer hall
that support its principal 15 domes at varying elevations. When first
entering this building, one will not say it is a mosque because of
strong Hindu architecture influence. The mosque has a large inner yard
where the place to wash is located in the middle.
Another interesting mosque is Siddi Bashir Mosque, which is only
ten-minute drive from Jumma Masjid. It has two famous minarets; when
one of the minarets is swayed by applying a little force at the topmost
arch, the other begins to vibrate. The mechanism of this vibration is a
mystery. The locals call the mosque Jhulta Minara or "swaying minaret".
South of
Old Town, there is Rani Rupmati's Mosque locally known as
Masjid-e-Nagina. It was built between 1430 and 1440 and named after the
Hindu wife of sultan Mohmen Beghara, Rani Rupmati. It has three domes
that are connected together by a flat roof. The domes are supported by
pillars. Like in other mosques, the minarets are beautifully and
splendidly carved.
Another Islamic heritage that remains in place until now all over
Gujarat is no alcohol drinks. Centuries ago the Muslim sultans of
Gujarat prohibited the people from drinking alcohol. The people have
obeyed the rule and today it has become their tradition. In addition,
the Father of the Nation, Mahatma Gandhi, who based his movement in
Ahmadabad, also prohibited alcohol drinking
Only five-star hotels provide liquor. "But it is only for hotel guests
and they must show their passports. The bar is not in the lobby hotel,
it is hidden from the public and a police officer will be there,"
explained Prayaga Sriram from the Gujarat Tourism Office.
Exploring the town is safe, even if you are a foreign woman and alone.
As a foreigner sometimes you pay an unreasonable price for hiring a
rickshaw, a three-wheeled car. Since the traffic is chaos, it takes
courage to cross the road and blowing the horn is normal.
The citizens of Ahmadabad are mixed races of Dravidians, Aryans,
Persians, Arabs and Africans. They are hospitable and nice. Whenever
they have chance, they like to have a little chat with you. Despite
their broken English, they will try to help you if you ask for
directions. The hospitality and the diversity of its culture make a
visit worthwhile. Travel tips
-The best time to visit Ahmadabad is in October, since the weather is
pleasant (35ø C) and the Navratri Festival, the longest dance festival
in the world, is held all over Gujarat from Oct. 3 to Oct. 12.
-Whenever you go out, ask the travel desk officer in the hotel to write
the destination in Gujarati language since it is easier for you to
communicate with rickshaw drivers.
-Most hotels are basic; it is recommended to stay in a 5-star hotel for
your comfort. Pride Hotel Ahmadabad has good facilities and services (http://www.pridegroup.com)
-There are many interesting places to visit in and around the town. Contact Gujarat Tourism (tcgl@adl.vsnl.net.in) or a travel agent (jnraotcs@eth.net) for further information and assistance.
-Ahmadabad has anm international airport that is accessible from Kuala
Lumpur, Singapore, Kuwait and Muscat. Domestic flights connects to
other big Indian cities.
-Vegetarianism is a strong tradition in Gujarat. Although very spicy, Gujarati vegetarian cuisine is a must try.
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