Halimun Salak National Park Part-5 Ends

The Last Day in Citalahab

We were glad  to finish the Citalahab forest walk. Feri’s estimation was right, we completed the trail in about one hour.  With Feri as the guide, our experience of the forest hiking was rewarding.  

Coming out of  the canopies, I just realized that it was a cloudless hot day.  Sweating, I took off my jacket.  I abruptly remembered the cobblestone track of last night. Things were different in the daylight. Stopping  at the site where we saw the glowing mushroom, I squatted to see those tiny little “plants”.  Only the biggest mushroom was apparent. We continued to walk to the Cikaniki Station.  “Let’s go to the waterfall, it is not far from here,” Feri said as we were all in the car. 

The Citalahab forest trail at Halimun Salak National Park

I saw a sign in the direction of Curug Macan–the name of the waterfall. The car dropped in by the road, Feri got off and assessed the underbrush short-cut. The path was descending  and I didn’t see any track, it was dense with bushes. “This bypass is shorter than the formal entrance,” he added. Feri started to step down and the others followed.  Again, I needed to keep my balance as we were walking downward. Feri helped me several times when I  was tracing the path.  For sure,  only certain  local people used this bypath. In the first 20 meters of the declining pathway, I had to struggle. After that , the track was a bit levelled.  We walked on leaves littered and rough ground, which was not different from the forest trail that Setyo and I just took.

Curug Macan at Halimun Salak National Park

The waterfall was located in the forest.  As we were walking near to it,  the sound of the falling waters was getting louder.  Curug Macan, meaning tiger waterfall in English,  is one of the many waterfalls in Halimun Salak National Park.  In the past, the tigers used to take water on site for drinking. Hidden behind the  five-meter waterfall was a cave where the tigers used to live. As more people visited the site, the tigers left the cave. Curug Macan is now a popular recreational site for the local villagers. If there are outside visitors, they must be guests– like me–who stay at Citalahab.

Crystal clear water at the river by Curug Macan, Halimun-Salak National Park

By the river, the locals built  a cemented circle for sitting. The huge umbrella above the seat was already worn.  The thunderous sound of falling water was soothing. Forcefully falling on the big rocks, the waters poured into a small  river. Many big rocks  were scattered on the river, halting  the water that  kept running no matter what. My eyes refreshed to see  the crystal clear flowing water. It was contaminated only by some falling leaves and twigs  from the big trees that grew along the river.  Unfortunately, some irresponsible visitors threw their plastic trash. Setyo picked up an empty plastic bottled water that was found on the river side.

Curug Macan, Citalahab, Halimun Salak National Park

I sat on one of the outsize rocks by the river. Staring at the unstoppable running water, I felt rejuvenated.  I was looking up to the sky, it was covered by the shades of the giant trees.  It was a fresh atmosphere. If I didn’t think of the guys who would wait for me, I would plunge into the river and play in the water. In my mind, I was planning to do it in the river next to the homestay. We left Curug Macan as it was getting late. 

Canopies by Curug Macan, Halimun Salak National Park

Entering the homestay, the food was already presented on the carpeted floor. Again, it was delicious Indonesian food with sayur asam as the best dish for lunch. 

Indonesian food for lunch at Citalahab, Halimun Salak National Park

After lunch, Setyo was going to take a nap, I decided to go to the next door Cikaniki River.  I went toward the river. The stream was normal but, I heard, a few months ago during the rainy season the water had overflowed and flooded the nearby houses.

I went down to the river through small steps that had been made by the locals.  Lifting my trousers, I let my feet dip in the water. Ah! The water was cold. The rocks– big and small–were spread on the river. I held on to big rocks to walk towards  the opposite of the stream,  it was quite strong.   In the middle, the water reached  my knees. After walking back and fort in the waters I approached a site covered by trees. I sat on a big rock, dipped my feet in the river, and felt the stream flow bathing my skin. It was chilly.  Just watching the water that ran unstoppably was really reviving. Feeling cold at my feet, I decided to finish my relaxation.

Cikaniki River, Citalahab, Halimun Salak National Park

As I was out of the river, I noticed that the neighborhood looked deserted. The visitors were already leaving and most villagers were also away. The villagers are going to the soccer field to see the kick off of the tournament. We were the only guests left. It was half past one, we needed to leave soon. We said good bye to Feri and his wife, our host. 

One-day stay was actually too short to enjoy Citalahab.  We returned to the rough road again, passed the small residential areas, and exited the National Park at about 4 pm.

One of the small residential areas in Halimun Salak National Park

Trip Logistics


The best time to go to Citalahab is in the dry season (April-September), not the rainy season (September-April). Our case was special. We went to Citalahab on October luckily it was not raining. The bumpy road  to Citalahab and the forest trail are muddy and slippery on rainy season.  Your trip to see the glowing mushroom at night could be cancelled, if it is raining. And the spectacular sunrise could be missed as well.  Intensive heavy rains could result in the flooding of the Cikaniki River. 

If you leave Citalahab on Sunday afternoon by the car, expect being trapped in the congested traffic in Bogor and the highway, as many urbans return to Jakarta, you may end up arriving in the evening.

Individual or Organized Trip:

It is a matter of time and budget to choose the trip to be organized individually or by a tour operator.  Although a private tour is a bit pricey, it is flexible. The schedule can be customized to our interests.   Organizing the trip  individually is possible. However, you need to calculate the bolts and nuts, from arranging the transportation to booking the homestay. 


Considering the condition of the track to Citalahab, it’s highly recommended to take a jeep. If you ride a motorcycle, a trail  motorcycle is recommended. Only the locals ride on underbone  motorcycles back and forth to Citalahab. The driver should be familiar with the road condition of the National Park area.    


All activities are outdoor such as forest trail or tea plantation walk, you need to be fit. This is not a site for children. Getting up early is required if you want to catch the sunrise. If you are there to do nothing, I recommend you choose the house by the Cikaniki River.   There are some traditional wooden houses located by the river.


The room at the homestay is very basic, do not expect anything fancy. The house has a squatting toilet and it doesn’t have water heater. The host will try to accommodate your needs having warm water for taking shower. The food is Indonesian home-made food, if you have your own favorite food, you can bring it with you, or if you have the raw materials, you can  ask the host to cook it for you. Only cash applies. You will interact with the host, so respect the local cultures and just enjoy the place you are visiting, it is fulfilling.

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