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Homestays
where the heart is in Ubud
Since the 1970s, Ubud
has been one of Bali's popular tourist destinations and many
travelers fall in love with its beautiful panoramic scenery.
Many of them seek mystical experiences and a good place to dwell
on values different from theirs.
They want to learn about Balinese culture by living with local
families in this sub-district in Gianyar Regency, about 15 kilometers
north-east of capital Denpasar.
Others become faithful residents, marry locals and speak Balinese
as fluent as the natives.
The increase in visiting tourists has boosted the demand for
accommodation starting from private villas to homestays, specially
for backpackers.
Modest homestays are now not only spread along Jl. Raya Ubud
but also along Jl. Gautama, Jl. Maruti, Jl. Hanoman and Jl. Karna.
They each have a board hanging in front of the house.
These homestays offer competitive prices, which are very cheap
for foreign tourists.
Ibu Ketut, wife of the owner of Donald Homestay, only
charges Rp 40,000 (US$4) per room per night.
"I can give you a discount if you stay longer,"
said Ketut, who also runs a small warung (stall) selling
Indonesian food and drinks on Jl. Gautama.
Her homestay has four clean rooms that sit in a neatly arranged
small garden behind her house compound. She claimed her guests
always enjoyed their stay and always returned there.
Sudana, owner of the next door homestay, offered an even cheaper
price of Rp 30,000 per night per room. He only has five rooms
in a small compound.
Each room has only a bed, a small wooden desk and a private
bathroom with cold shower, but it's enough.
Most homestays in Ubud are usually run by families. The owners
live in the front part of the house while the rented rooms are
located at the back. The number of the rooms in these homestays
are usually less than 10.
At a homestay on Jl. Hanoman, owned by painter Dewa Nyoman
Jati, there is a small rice barn, family temple and also a bale
(wooden daybed). It is indeed a Balinese house.
At the back of his large site, facing the ricefield, stand
five two-story plaited bamboo houses. Nyoman said many foreign
tourists stay for a long time in his houses, at least for one
month.
"Some tourists stay here to learn Balinese painting with
me while others learn Balinese dance or music," he said
proudly, adding that some of his guests come from Japan and Europe.
His homestay is also modest but looks natural as he uses bamboo
furniture and a wooden interior.
Jl. Kajeng is also another popular hangout for backpackers.
The homestays along this street charge various prices ranging
from Rp 60,000 to Rp 200,000 per night depend on the facilities
they offer.
Wayan, who only has two rooms for rent at his homestay facing
a secluded garden, charged Rp 100,000 per night. "My rooms
are always occupied. I had a Brazilian guest who stayed here
for one month," he claimed.
Living in homestays is definitely very different from luxury
resorts with prime services. However, homestays give the opportunity
for tourists to experience living with a Balinese family.
They can chat and socialize freely with the locals, observe
closely preparations for their Hindu rituals and even join them
in making the offerings from young coconut leaves.
But Ubud also offers homestays on its outskirts located on
Jl. Bisma, facing the ricefields.
To find a homestay in Ubud is not difficult as most of them
have email addresses. Unfortunately, the homestays management
do not download their mail regularly.
However, some even refuse to deal with technology as they
have neither telephone nor other communication equipment.
"Our overseas guests usually send a letter to reserve
a room," said Bendi's owner simply.
Without the beach -- like other tourist destinations in Bali
namely Kuta, Seminyak, Nusa Dua or Jimbaran -- Ubud still manages
to retain its popularity as a destination on the island of the
gods.
"The air is still fresh and the people are friendly,"
said Angela, a Jakartan who stayed at a homestay on Jl. Kajeng,
when asked why she visited Ubud.
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