Part 3: Bawean’s Natural Attractions
Our second day on Bawean Island was a rather long one. We had planned to visit both an isle off the Bawean Island and a lake. I was really excited about our itinerary and had already prepared my gear for snorkeling. My skin had been longing for the sea water. Therefore, I hoped the sky would stay clear all day.
Iswanto from Baweanis Tour picked us up at the accommodation at 8 AM. Under the intense morning sun, the car drove toward Pamona Port in Sidogedungbatu Village, located on the southeastern side of Bawean Island.
Pamona Port is the gateway connecting Bawean Island to Gili Noko Isle, our destination. The low tide at the port made the boats that were docked appear as if they were stuck in the mud. I changed into my snorkeling outfit in a small mosque bathroom near the dock.
Pamona Port is indeed an harbor for fishermen and a transport route to Gili Noko Isle. There were no shops, fortunately we had brought along our own water, food, and some mangoes given to us by the wife of the Head of Diponggo Village the day before. We waited inside the car while Iswanto found a boat. It wasn’t even 9 AM yet, but the sun outside already was scorching.
Gili Noko Isle
After getting a boat, we boarded. The distance between Pamona Port and Gili Noko Isle is about five kilometers. Because of this, we could already see the isle from a distance. The journey was very pleasant, with almost no waves, and the sky was perfectly clear. Before heading to Gili Noko, we first stopped at a marine park for snorkeling. There are several snorkeling spots in the waters around Noko Gili. Iswanto chose the one near the isle because I requested a shallow area.
On the boat, I only needed to take off my outer pants and put on my snorkeling gear, and then, splash! My body, which had been craving the sea water, plunged into the water. The small fish scattered, probably startled by the sudden presence of something new. Not long after, they came closer to the side of the boat when my travel companion, Heni, threw breadcrumbs from above. There were quite a lot of colorful fish. I began to swim, looking around at the intact coral reefs. Occasionally, I would swim back to the boat to drink out of thirst, and then continue snorkeling.
I felt quite comfortable because I didn’t experience strong waves while swimming. It was a joy to witness the beauty of the coral reefs in various shapes. Before I knew it, I had been swimming around for almost one hour. Since we had other destinations to go to, I decided to end my swimming activity.
The boat then headed toward a small uninhabited island having white sandy beaches: Noko Isle. The low tide made it impossible for our boat to reach the shore, so we had to wade across the knee-deep water. After stumbling a bit, we finally reached the beach.
There was a small stall selling drinks and snacks, where we put our belongings while I looked for a place to rinse off. There was a bathroom for visitors, but it was locked. The caretaker unlocked it for me, and I was able to rinse off the saltwater that had stuck to my skin. The condition of the bathroom was reasonably clean. After using the bathroom, I gave the caretaker a small tip.
Gili Noko Isle consists of two landmasses (isles) that are separated by water during high tide. The larger, inhabited island is Gili, while Noko Isle is uninhabited. Gili Isle is about 5,000 square meters in size and is home to around 700 people.
We met Mr. Amiruddin, who was lounging near the small stall at the time. Amiruddin, 60 years old, could be considered one of the elders of Gili Noko Isle. According to him, Gili Isle, which was once uninhabited, was visited by two individuals known as Juju Tokang and Mbah Ratu. These two mystical figures dug wells to obtain freshwater. They created three wells that still produce water today. With the availability of freshwater, people began to arrive. These newcomers started to farm and settle down. Currently, most of the residents work as fishermen and farmers. “Although freshwater is available, the residents struggle with electricity at night,” said Amiruddin, a native of Gili Isle. “The solar-powered electricity only lasts for a few hours at night.”
Noko Isle is a small, uninhabited landmass consisting only of a stretch of white sand. “In 2004, mangrove trees were planted on Noko Isle,” said Amiruddin, who now helps maintain the isle. It only takes half an hour to walk around Noko Isle. The facilities there are still limited. There is only one place to rinse off and one small stall. The beach is made up of natural white sand and the water is gentle, making it suitable for swimming. Noko Isle can be considered one of the few small islands with a pristine white sandy beach.
What needs to be preserved, of course, is the cleanliness of the isle and its beach. At night, the sandbar connecting Noko Isle to Gili Isle is covered by the rising tide.
Bawean Deer
After leaving Noko Isle, we continued our journey to Mombhul Beach on the eastern side of Bawean Island. The vast Mombhul area is managed by a private company, so it is well-maintained. Mombhul Beach consists of cliffs and is a spot for watching the sunrise. Below the cliffs, there is a pier from there passengers can sail to Gili Noko Isle. There is also a monument of the mascot of the 2018 Asian Games, Si Atung. The scorching midday sun on the beach became a bit cooler with the shade of the trees. After a brief rest, we proceeded to the Bawean deer sanctuary.
The sanctuary is quite simple, consisting of a secondary forest area enclosed by a wire fence. This is where the Bawean deer live. They appear small in size. They feed on the leaves of tree branches that are intentionally pruned.
For wildlife enthusiasts, especially those concerned with endangered species, Bawean is known for its endemic deer. In 2018, when Indonesia hosted the Asian Games, the Bawean deer (Axis kuhlii) became its mascot. On Bawean Island, Bawean deer are only found on the western side of the island, including on Tanjung Cina Island, Gunung Besar, and Gunung Mas. Bawean deer are considered a pure breed because they have not been mixed with other deer species. The International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) has categorized Bawean deer as critically endangered since 2008. In Indonesia, Bawean deer is a protected species and cannot be hunted.
“Some of the Bawean deer were relocated to the eastern part due to the earthquake (occurred in March 2024),” Iswanto explained. It’s unclear how many Bawean deer are in the sanctuary, but we saw several fawns and a male deer lazily resting. It was a joy to see Bawean deer up close and greet them directly.
Kastoba Lake
By the time it was past noon, we needed to eat. Unfortunately, there were no food stalls at Mombhul Beach. Iswanto mentioned that we would stop at a stall before heading to Kastoba Lake. If you look at the map, from Mombhul Beach to Kastoba Lake, it’s simply a straight line from east to the center. However, there is no shortcut like that, so we had to take the island’s connecting road toward the north first. As usual, we enjoyed the journey, passing through residential areas and forests. We stopped at a small vendor to fill our stomachs. As usual, we ordered grilled fish. After that, the car continued its journey toward Dusun Candi, Peromaan Village, Tambak District.
We passed several hamlets in Peromaan Village. What’s interesting about Peromaan Village is the presence of dhurung, a traditional wooden building with a triangular roof originally covered with dried nipa palm leaves that is typically found in front of houses. In the past, rice would be stored in the ceiling of the roof, but now it is used for storing other items. The dhurung is also a place for resting and socializing.
The sign to the entrance of Kastoba Lake had become faint. The car was parked near the gate, and from there, we had to walk. The incline on the paved road was steep until we reached the forest edge. From the forest edge, we walked on a narrow trail that went up and down as we navigated through the forest.
Luckily, it hadn’t rained all day, so the roads weren’t slippery, though in some parts, the ground was a little damp. We needed to be cautious because in some parts, the trail was quite narrow and could only be passed by one person at a time. Along the way, we were entertained by the sounds of nature, such as bird chirpings and the hum of insects. The atmosphere became quiet as we entered the deeper parts of the forest. Kastoba Lake is situated at an altitude of 400 meters above sea level, which made the hike a bit challenging. “We’re almost there,” said Iswanto to us as we were catching our breath. The journey from the parking area to the lake took about 45 minutes at a normal pace.
Upon arriving at the lake’s edge, I was mesmerized by its untouched beauty. The lake, which spans 725 hectares, is surrounded by shrubland, giving it a pristine feel. There have been no buildings or developments. What’s unfortunate is that there were no trash bins, causing some irresponsible visitors to discard their trash by the lake.
The atmosphere by the lake was serene, quiet, and peaceful. I wished I could stay longer and enjoy the tranquility and the natural ambiance. My thoughts drifted as I imagined how Kastoba Lake came to be.
Millions of years ago, Bawean Island was an area with volcanic activity. The largest volcano was Mount Balibak. The eruption of Mount Balibak formed the caldera that is now Kastoba Lake. This was explained by Agus Hendratno, a lecturer in geological engineering at Gadjah Mada University, Yogyakarta. According to local legend, Kastoba Lake was formed when the only sacred tree on Bawean Island was uprooted. The tree, along with its roots, was pulled out by a king of genies and thrown into the sea. The land where the tree once stood became Kastoba Lake, and the tree and its roots were flipped over and turned into coral reefs on the eastern side of Bawean Island. This version of the story was written by Sudjijono, a lecturer in the Indonesian Literature Department at the Faculty of Arts, State University of Malang, in his paper Legenda from Bawean Island.
Although I was enjoying the silence by Kastoba Lake, eventually, I was disturbed by the swarm of forest mosquitoes, whose bites were painful. We slowly left Kastoba Lake, which, in my opinion, is the most beautiful lake I have seen in Indonesia so far.